Variability in Real Food

Globalization destroyed our relationship with food by severely lengthening our food chain. We have been distanced from the land, our farmers, our butchers and everyone else in our food system. As a result, we have lost terroir, that sense of place that has been present in every single bite of food our ancestors have taken for millions of years. 

Loss of Terroir

While the wine industry continues to embrace the term terroir by celebrating how different soils, climates, and other growing conditions impact its wine, the vast majority of our food industry prides itself on regularity. It is incredible that you can get the same exact McDonald’s burger in Tokyo as you can in NYC or that Budweiser tastes the same no matter where you are in the world. This is a modern phenomenon, and it is not okay.

Achieving this level of global uniformity was never before possible. The fact that we achieved it should not be a source of pride, rather it should be a source of shame.

The ONLY way this is possible is through a food system that has distanced its consumers to the point they are comfortable with…

1. Not knowing anyone in their food chain
2. Loss of seasonality in our grocery stores and restaurants
3. Ingredients shipped from all over the world
4. Artificial uniformity in everything
5. Completely dead food 
6. Genetically modified food
7. The massive amounts of artificial preservatives, emulsifiers, and other food additives that make everything above possible

This loss of terroir has brought with it a false expectation of uniformity. The modern consumer expects their food to look, feel and taste exactly the same all the time. And, when it doesn’t, we think something is wrong or that it has less value. 

Embracing Variability

Uniformity and predictableness in our global food system conveys to us a sense of security. But, they should not. They are thin veneers that mask a very flawed, fragile system that, at best, slowly destroys the planet and sickens its consumers. At worst, it ultimately fails. To support the change necessary to create a more nourishing and sustainable system we must embrace the seasonal variation in our food that exists in everything from the sweetness of fruit and the fat content of meat to the texture of sauerkraut and the volume of a loaf of sourdough bread. The nutritional profile, flavor, texture and even appearance of local, seasonal, artisan food fluctuates from day-to-day, week-to-week and season-to-season. This is the way it has always been and, what I believe we need to accept in the food system of the future.

Struggling with Sourdough

For example, here at the Modern Stone Age Kitchen we strive on a daily (and sometimes hourly) basis to create the same loaf of sourdough bread each day for our customers. But, quality control and strict uniformity are two very different things.

The reality is our bread changes slightly with the seasons.

Temperature, humidity and even air flow greatly impact the activity of the wild bacteria and yeasts (and the multitude of chemical and physical changes they create), proofing times, and ultimately, the look, taste and texture of our bread.

We do everything we can to reduce variables such as taking daily temperature readings of the room, the flour, and the sourdough mother culture and calculate something called FDT (Final Dough Temperature) to determine the temperature of the water needed that day to add to the dough.

We also adjust proofing times and baking times.

But, at the end of the day, it is genuine, wild, long fermented sourdough bread.

Quality artisan food is created with strict quality controls,
but is not always uniform.

Mindset Shift

A food system that truly celebrates local, seasonal foods and employs the trillions of wild, hyperlocal bacteria and yeasts to transform raw ingredients into their safest, most nourishing and delicious forms through fermentation is one that is always in flux.

But, don’t let that fool you.

The food system I speak of is resilient and is the safest food system possible for everyone in it. This connected, flexible food system cares about the health and well-being of the environment, the farmers, the producers and the consumers. 

However, for this system to work, the consumer mindset needs to change. Consumers of this food system should expect high quality, nourishing, delicious food and embrace:

1. Forming relationships with farmers, ranchers, fishermen and food producers
2. Seasonality in the grocery store and the variation in quantity and quality that comes with it
3. Reliance on local ingredients and locally produced foods
4. Variation in quantity, quality, flavors, aromas, textures, and appearance in real food.
5. Fermented foods that are teaming with live bacteria and yeasts
6. Heirloom crops and livestock
7. Shorter shelf life of food

Be wary of uniformity and instead embrace the variability and unpredictable nature of a localized food system. It is a system where everyone in the system is valued.

It is a system focused on nourishment and we are proud to be creating this at the Modern Stone Age Kitchen.